Clothing Companies Fall Out of China's Top 500


Release date:

2013/07/19

In the past two years, driven by factors such as sluggish consumer demand, weakening external markets, and rising costs, the apparel industry has hit a downturn—leaving industry giants among the hardest hit and struggling to stay afloat. Yesterday, reporters noted from the latest 2013 China Top 500 list published by Fortune Chinese Network that several prominent clothing brands experienced significant drops in their rankings. Notably, sports apparel giant Li Ning and casual wear leader Semir have even "fallen out" of the prestigious Top 500 list altogether. Meanwhile, well-established apparel leaders like Yaguoer, Bosideng, and Metersbonwe, though still listed, have seen their positions plummet dramatically. Industry insiders point out that these shifts in the rankings vividly reflect the current state of China’s domestic apparel sector as a whole.

  In the past two years, the apparel industry has hit a low point amid sluggish consumer demand, weakening external markets, and rising costs—challenges that have particularly impacted industry giants, leaving them struggling to stay afloat. Yesterday, reporters learned from the latest 2013 China Top 500 list published by Fortune Chinese Network that several prominent apparel brands experienced significant drops in their rankings. Notably, sports apparel leader Li-Ning and casual wear giant Semir both "fell out" of the prestigious Top 500 list altogether. Meanwhile, established players like Yaguoer, Bosideng, and Metersbonwe, though still listed, have seen their positions plummet compared to previous years. Industry insiders pointed out that these shifts in the rankings reflect the ongoing downturn in China’s broader apparel sector, characterized by weak consumer spending, high inventory levels, and escalating production costs—factors that have further squeezed corporate profits. Experts predict it may take another two years for the industry to emerge from this challenging phase. **Current Situation: Apparel Giants Struggle on the 500-Strong List** A closer look at this year’s China Top 500 list reveals that the apparel industry has suffered one of its toughest setbacks yet. Sports apparel giant Li-Ning, for instance, was excluded from the list after its revenue plunged to 6.739 billion yuan last year—a 24.5% decline from the previous year. Interestingly, while Li-Ning ranked 297th in 2011 and 381st in 2012, it now ranks outside the Top 500 entirely. Similarly, casual wear brand Semir also missed the cut entirely, dropping straight off the list from its 241st position last year. Even among the remaining apparel brands still on the list, their rankings have taken noticeable hits. Yaguoer, a leading menswear company, fell from 314th to 365th; Bosideng, the renowned downwear brand, slid from 416th to 431st; and Metersbonwe, a popular casual fashion retailer, dropped from 354th to 411th. Meanwhile, sportswear brand Anta landed at 486th this year, down from its 382nd-place ranking last year. Indeed, the dramatic changes in the apparel companies’ positions within the Top 500 list are just one clear indicator of the deepening struggles plaguing China’s apparel industry. Meanwhile, recent semi-annual financial reports released by several major apparel and footwear firms underscore the lingering severity of the industry’s “winter.” For example, Qianbaidu, Daphne, and Belle International all reported disappointing results, with negative net profit growth and declining same-store sales, signaling a slowdown in expansion plans. According to Qianbaidu’s interim report, second-quarter same-store sales declined by approximately 9.6% year-on-year, while first-half sales fell by about 5.1%. The company also anticipates a 10%-15% drop in net profit compared to the same period last year. Daphne International similarly warned that its core brand businesses—including Daphne and Shoe Cabinet—experienced a 13.7% year-on-year decline in same-store sales during the second quarter. The company expects first-half same-store sales to fall by 9.2%, with core brands posting only low-single-digit growth. Meanwhile, net profit is projected to plunge significantly year-on-year. Footwear giant Belle International reported even more sobering data, revealing that its domestic retail business saw only a modest 0.5% increase in same-store sales during the second quarter, while its sportswear segment grew by 2.5%. Earlier this year, Saturday Group predicted that its first-half net profit would decline by 10%-40% compared to the same period last year, following a 47.6 million yuan profit in the prior year. Yesterday, the All-China Commercial Information Center released statistics showing that nationwide retail sales of apparel at 100 key large-scale retailers rose by 6.9% in the first half of 2013—yet this growth rate was 2.9 percentage points lower than the same period the previous year. Industry experts emphasize that China’s apparel sector has been mired in a prolonged winter since last year. In an economic environment marked by weak consumer purchasing power and shrinking demand, the industry’s sales growth has reached its slowest pace in over a decade—and there’s little sign of improvement this year. **Root Causes: Sluggish Consumption and Rising Costs Weigh Heavily on Profits** “Falling average selling prices, coupled with rising labor costs and higher financial expenses, are expected to erode our company’s net profit margins,” explained Saturday Group, a publicly listed apparel firm. Against the backdrop of tepid consumer demand both domestically and internationally, the situation has been further compounded by soaring labor costs in China, along with increasing rents and raw material expenses. These pressures have severely squeezed apparel companies’ profitability. Industry sources reveal that many well-known domestic and international brands are relocating their production bases to Southeast Asian countries in a bid to cut costs. According to a survey conducted by the Asian Footwear Association, since the global financial crisis erupted in 2008, China’s manufacturing costs have steadily climbed. As a result, Southeast Asia has already captured 30% of China’s footwear orders, displacing the country as a major global production hub. The association noted that the company had already shifted some of its mainland China-based production capacity to Indonesia and Vietnam last year. This year, it plans to further enhance its flexible production strategies, ensuring a more balanced distribution of manufacturing resources across China, Indonesia, and Vietnam. Li Peng, Secretary-General of the Asian Footwear Association, highlighted to the media that Chinese footwear workers’ wages have surged nearly 3.5 times over the past decade—from 2003 to 2013. Particularly after the financial crisis, labor costs soared rapidly, while the RMB exchange rate against the U.S. dollar appreciated by more than 30% cumulatively. Combined with other rising expenses, these factors have effectively wiped out much of the industry’s profit margins. Earlier this year, media reports revealed that, among 39 apparel companies surveyed in their 2012 annual reports, 24 saw their operating profits decline—and nine even posted negative earnings. Among them, Huafu Color Spinning recorded the largest operating loss, totaling 139 million yuan, a staggering 131.04% drop year-on-year. Meanwhile, China’s apparel industry as a whole not only suffered a sharp decline in operating profits but also witnessed a jaw-dropping 1,608.32% plunge in net profit—a stark illustration of the sector’s mounting challenges. Notably, the rapid rise in domestic labor costs has prompted international apparel manufacturers to gradually pull back from China, exacerbating the industry’s ongoing downturn.In recent years, news has been continuously circulating about Adidas and the South Korean apparel brand "H Clothing" pulling their production bases out of China. Last year, the American fashion label Coach also announced that, due to rising labor costs in China, it would shift 50% of its manufacturing capacity to countries with lower production expenses—such as Indonesia, Thailand, and Vietnam. A Way Out: "Massive Clearance" Sales Are Not the Answer Moreover, businesses are facing even greater pressure as consumer purchasing power declines and high inventory levels persist. To clear excess stock, recover cash flow, and simultaneously boost sales, major clothing brands have ramped up promotional activities this year, adopting an aggressive "slash-and-burn" approach both online and offline. However, industry insiders believe this strategy is far from ideal. Several publicly listed apparel and footwear companies have attributed their "declining performance" to factors such as slower economic growth and subdued consumer demand, coupled with unfavorable weather conditions—including an unusually cold spring—and the widespread outbreak of avian influenza in eastern China. To expedite inventory clearance and secure much-needed liquidity, Li-Ning made headlines in April by partnering aggressively with Vancl for a two-day mega-sale event, shocking the industry with prices as low as 19 yuan across the board. Some items were even discounted to less than 10% of their original price. Meanwhile, ZARA, the international fast-fashion giant, recently announced via its official Chinese Weibo account that all its mainland stores have begun offering discounts. The brand’s current promotion is set to last for one month, with the primary goal being to liquidate existing inventory. ZARA will assess whether to extend the sale period based on how quickly it sells off its remaining stock. A recent market survey revealed that leading international fast-fashion brands like ZARA, H&M, and Mango are intensifying their discount campaigns, with offers as deep as 50% off, and even some brands pushing discounts as low as 30%. Yesterday, the China Commercial Information Center highlighted that, compared to the first half of 2012, the growth rate of clothing retail sales among 100 major retail enterprises slowed significantly in the first half of 2013. Meanwhile, overall clothing retail volumes showed a notably faster pace of expansion. This trend underscores the fact that retailers engaged in more aggressive promotions during the first half of 2013. However, industry experts remain skeptical about the "massive clearance" sales strategy adopted by many apparel brands as a survival tactic to weather the winter months. They argue that the negative consequences of such practices outweigh any potential benefits. Daphne International, for instance, reported in its quarterly results that while the company slightly increased discount rates in the second quarter to spur sales growth, these efforts fell short of expectations—largely because of continued heavy clearance of outdated inventory. As a result, the company experienced a year-on-year decline in gross profit margins, albeit by a modest single-digit percentage. According to industry statistics, the total inventory held by all brands currently stands at roughly twice the volume of their annual sales. If no new products were introduced, this inventory could sustain sales for another two years at the current pace. Clothing brand management strategist Min Guangya predicts that the current downturn in the apparel industry will likely persist into 2014, with a full recovery not expected until 2015 at the earliest. Min suggests that for companies to navigate these challenging times, they must first identify niche markets that align with their unique strengths, resources, and capabilities—essentially segmenting the market effectively. Secondly, brands need to rethink their distribution channels. While traditional models like franchising and e-commerce have dominated the industry, these approaches haven’t fully addressed underlying issues. Instead, companies should explore innovative models tailored to their specific needs, such as integrating physical store experiences with seamless online ordering—a hybrid "brick-and-click" model—or embracing customized product offerings. Finally, brands must sharpen their identity by investing heavily in research and development to enhance product differentiation. Additionally, boosting the technological sophistication of fabrics and cutting-edge tailoring techniques can help elevate competitive edges. Beyond domestic markets, companies should also consider expanding into overseas territories, leveraging their unique strengths and capabilities to tap into global opportunities.